Whiteheads 101: What Causes Them and How to Treat Them

Waking up with a pimple is not ideal but, rather than wallowing in frustration, jump straight into action. The plan of attack depends largely on the type of pimple you have. Whiteheads on the face require a different treatment strategy than deep-under-the-skin cysts or blackheads scattered all over your nose. The skin is complex and different forms of acne occur for different reasons — maybe you forgot to wash off your makeup after a hot day or you tested a new product that just did not agree with you. Whatever the reason, you're likely wondering how to get rid of it, and fast.

Whiteheads are one of the most easily recognized types of acne out there. They get their name from the white top — or head — that forms and can pop up anywhere on the face (however whiteheads on the nose and chin are most common). The good news is, compared to deeper zits like cysts, they aren't too hard to treat.

Ahead, two dermatologists share everything you need to know about whiteheads, from exactly they are and what causes them to how to treat them, and if you can pop them (spoiler: the answer is no).

Whiteheads, also known as closed comedones, are a form of noninflammatory acne. "They form when dead skin cells, bacteria, and oil become clogged in your pores," Naana Boakye, MD, MPH, a board-certified dermatologist at Bergen Dermatology, tells POPSUGAR. They're categorized by their white or skin-colored head, but they're not the only type of acne that can look like this.

"These are not to be confused with pustules, which are red, angry pimples filled with pus, giving a whitehead appearance," says Joshua Zeichner, MD, an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. People also often mix up whiteheads vs blackheads — both are typically found on the T-Zone, but they're completely different.

Like all acne, whiteheads form when a pore gets clogged, but just in case you'd like to nerd out, Dr. Boakye breaks it down a bit further. These bumps form when the pilosebaceous unit (oil gland or hair follicle) is obstructed due to follicular hyperkeratinization, which is the shedding of skin cells. This results in sebaceous gland hypertrophy or enlarged glands, causing an uptick in sebum production. "During the shedding of these skin cells into the pore, a microcomedo is formed," she says. "As the sebum accumulates, then the pore enlarges. As the pore enlarges, there is a pro-inflammatory response that further stimulates the bacteria C. acne to wreak havoc."

And now, for the age-old question that everyone wants to know: should you pop whiteheads? The answer, as we're sure you're not surprised, is no. "Popping any pimple can make the skin more inflamed, make the blemish more noticeable, and leave it vulnerable to scarring and infection," says Dr. Boakye. An exception to that rule is when you see a pro.

If you're interested in professional whitehead removal, you'll need to visit an aesthetician or dermatologist who will likely use a comedone extractor, which is a small, circular metal tool. "Your dermatologist or an aesthetician may use a sharp instrument to open the whitehead before applying pressure with the extractor," says Dr. Zeichner. "This creates an opening or an orifice for the blockage to come out." Under no circumstance should this be attempted at home.

"If the whitehead is ready to be extracted, it will come out relatively easily," he adds.

If a trip to the doctor isn't in the cards, there are a few different ingredients and products that may help. "You can use over-the-counter products like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, which will help decrease oil production in pores," says Dr. Boakye.

For this, Dr. Zeichner recommends the Jori Acne & Oil Control Primer ($70), which contains maximum-strength two percent salicylic acid, as well as niacinamide and vitamin C. It acts as an acne treatment and makeup primer, helping to control oil and shine during use.

We also like the I Dew Care Fix My Zit Salicylic Acid Acne Gel Treatment ($23), containing salicylic acid (it's a POPSUGAR 2023 Beauty Award winner). For a cleanser containing this acne-fighting ingredient, try the Three Ships Beauty Refresh Papaya + Salicylic Acid Cleanser ($24).

I Dew Care Fix My Zit Salicylic Acid Acne Gel Treatment

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$23

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Three Ships Beauty Refresh Papaya + Salicylic Acid Cleanser

From

$24

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Another option is to use topical retinoids, which Dr. Zeichner says "acts like a pipe cleaner to prevent blockages within the pores." We recommend the Differin Acne Retinoid Treatment Gel Adapalene 0.1% ($17). "It helps normalize cell turnover to prevent cells from sticking together within the pores," Dr. Zeichner adds. "This can help open up whiteheads and prevent new ones from developing." (You can read our full review of the Differin Adapalene.)

Differin Acne Retinoid Treatment Gel Adapalene 0.1%

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$17

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And if all else fails, Dr. Boakye says, "Consult your dermatologist if stubborn whiteheads persist."