Here's How to Remove Blackheads At Home Safely
Not to get all Coach Carr from "Mean Girls" on you, but the general consensus of skin experts on at-home pore extractions, much like popping a pimple, is akin to passing out condoms to high schoolers: "We're not encouraging it, but if they're going to do it, let's make it safe," aesthetician Candace Marino tells POPSUGAR.
In all their gooey glory, excavating a blackhead can be wildly satisfying — a top guilty beauty indulgence, to be sure — but, like many tricky-to-do services, is often best left to the pros. Still, if you can't peel yourself away from the 10x magnifying mirror any time you step into the bathroom, Marino has some best practices to DIY facial extractions safely.
The first (and oddly, the trickiest) step is to identify the type of acne you have, as those little black dots on your nose may be blackheads or something else entirely. You might be mistaking them for sebaceous filaments. "Blackheads will be raised, textured, truly black, thick and waxy," she says. "The skin oils solidify, forming plugs which can dilate the pore further, leading to enlarged pores. Sebaceous filaments are the normal function of the follicle. Narrow, lighter in color under the skin — they do not fully obstruct the pore and are not meant for extractions."
For more tips, you can find Marino's full step-by-step guide ahead. As for that black extraction tool you've heard all about? In the words of Coach Carr: just don't do it, OK? Promise?
Step 1: Soften the Pores With Steam
Just like in most facials after you cleanse the skin, you'll want to introduce some heat. (But be aware: Marino noted that this step is "not recommended for anyone with melasma or hyperpigmentation.") This can help soften the pores and make it easier to extract the debris perched up inside.
You can buy a ready-made steamer like the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Pro Facial Steamer ($159) to make the process easy, or you can go the more cost-effective route. Simply boil hot water on the stove, throw some tea in the water to amp up the spa-like sensorial experience, and "hover over the pot with a towel over your head to trap in steam for five minutes," she says. "Don't do any longer or it can cause transepidermal water loss and dehydration."
Step 2: Extract With Cotton Rounds
The first rule of thumb to extracting your blackheads "with caution and care," as Marino put it, is to step away from the pore extraction tool. "Put down the knife — leave digging devices to the professionals to avoid potential permanent scarring or pigmentation issues and injury," she says. "Use clean fingers only."
Instead, wrap your finger in tissue or rounds like these Solimo Cotton Rounds ($3), and then gently (!) pinch the skin together and press upward. Press only in the direction you want the congestion to go (if you're pressing down onto the skin, "you're making things worse, and potentially spreading bacteria under the skin").
You'll also want to leave aggravated or superstubborn acne alone. "Hard, angry, or underground is no go."
Step 3: Wash Away Lingering Debris
Next, and to "keep [the] face free from cellular build up and environmental sludge," you'll want to cleanse the skin. Marino recommends a face wash with light exfoliating acids like the Skinbetter Oxygen Infusion Wash ($48) to keep pores clean.
Stay away from overly drying ingredients, like benzoyl peroxide, since overuse can create a rebound effect and kick sebum production into overdrive.
Step 4: Put It on Ice
Finally, you'll want to cool the skin. Immediately after the at-home extractions, Marino recommended a facial roller device. "The Skinny Confidential Hot Mess Ice Roller ($69) is ideal for immediate inflammation reduction and pain," she says. Then, in the next few days, reach for a hydrating, calming, and soothing serum like the iS Clinical HydraCool Serum ($99) to address any redness that may pop up afterward.
Kelsey Castañon is a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and content strategist with more than 13 years of experience in publishing. She is currently the senior content director at POPSUGAR, where you can find her stockpiling (and reporting on) everything from skin care to wine..